In a conversation with another about my work, I was asked just the other day: “Do you ever review restaurants that serve food that you usually avoid?” My answer was that I do my best to avoid places like those, unless I am invited to review them by the place itself, my boss, or as was the case when a national organization asked me to review a vegan restaurant. The perspective that I have gained over the years is that we all have different taste buds and life experiences which lead us down different paths, and that I should not enter into a place knowing I won’t leave happy. 

Some food-types rest right on the edge, like hamburgers. If you asked a majority of people what is on any given one, they would surely say: beef, lettuce, tomato, ketchup inside a bun. Restaurants have been trying to differentiate themselves from others for a long while, attempting to ‘church-up’ hamburgers, often to the detriment of what is a simple and good recipe. Suffice it to say that the Tap House was about to host a critic; they were, after all, along the streetcar route, and covering them was part of my current task. Would if I could say only brilliant things about every business being threatened by impartially detrimental construction, but then I would simply turn into the same advertisers who lie to you all day. 

Finding parking sucked along 14th and Farnam; half the road was entirely sealed off by orange barriers, and the other half had half its parking meters covered by potato sacks indicating that you aren’t allowed to stop there. I had to drive a few blocks down Farnam until I could bring my Jetta aside the curb, then I walked down past a few struggling businesses that seemed to have barely any patronage inside, and other shops which were completely vacant until I arrived at the Omaha Tap House. 

Entering the restaurant with perhaps a little bit of apprehension due to my worry about hamburgers, I was met with a comfortable, wood and matte-black interior. Plenty of light was let in through large street-side windows, and the booth I sat at was comfortable. I set down my pen and black journal just as my waiter arrived, 

“Whoa, nice pen!” He remarked, “Are you an artist?” 

Well, shoot, I thought. It would probably be better if he didn’t know I was a critic. 

“Ha, uh, sometimes. Mostly I write.” 

Was I made? Or, how the kids say it: was I ‘cooked’ already?

If anything, I absolutely do not want to receive any sort of special treatment; everything I do has to be done with honesty, or I am not able to stomach my own company. 

Regardless, it was cool how interested and polite my server was from right off the bat. (I learned his name later.) Seth was an excellent conversationalist and eased my worries as we spoke about the menu. He also told me that if I signed up for their rewards program, my appetizer would be free, which was super dope. I absolutely took advantage of that, ordering the ‘Crisp Brussel Sprouts’ and the ‘Fair Style Cheese Curds’ whose dairy was from a farm in Nebraska, as well as the ‘Omaha Style Smash’ burger. 

I will start with the curds: 

A well-sized appetizer that I would recommend splitting between two people. They were simple, with a perfect ratio of deep-fried breading-to-cheese. It was awesome to see a food menu item that was sourced from Nebraska farms, more so when it is tasty too! Being proud of one’s state is great, but pride without a good product is often hollow. Since the cheese was not overbearing, it was easy to consume it. With the burger came French fries, which were honestly not bad, but did not really outshine any others I’ve had. 

But the Crisp Brussel Sprouts? 

When I saw them on the menu with a description of: “seasoned with black garlic, Parmesan cheese and truffle,” excitement built inside me. It was not something I have seen on many Omaha menus, if any. Brought out on a nondescript bar tray, the brussel sprouts were dressed in their own glory: bright greens, dark greens, and a tinge of brown from being cooked; they smelled like the sun on garden leaves. Though brussel sprouts are most often bitter when eaten, upon my first bite I wrote “wow!” in my notebook. 

There was nothing heavy or too filling with them; seasoned with what was clearly identifiable as the quiet passions of autumn, the bitterness with brussel sprouts was soft, and danced with what I believed was the light truffle-butter and black garlic. I have in all of my reviews, never had brussel sprouts as good as I had them at the Omaha Tap House. Sweet and bitter sang like morning dew does to sunrays through greenhouse glass. 

I did order my ‘Omaha Style Smash’ with its “Tap House sauce" on the side, so that I could meter its application. Sauce is dangerous on any food! You never know if an overzealous cook will add a bit too much. The burger was listed as having two patties, cheddar cheese, caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms, shredded lettuce, pickles, tomato, and Tap House sauce. To be clear: it did come out looking like a handsome burger, and not some fast-food smushed thing. It did stay that way, at least until I brought it up and crushed it down to bite into it. 

Pleasantly, ‘surprise’ was clearly a hidden ingredient. It was an incredibly smooth and rich experience. The caramelized onions and sautéed mushrooms were in a pleasant abundance, bringing sweetness and a bit of heartiness to the burger. My bites at first were slow and done at regular intervals as I would pause to write the sensations and flavors down in my journal, but at some point I had forgotten to write and continued to work through the Omaha Style Smash. I wouldn’t do the burger a disservice and say that because of its sweetness it was a dessert; it stood entirely on its own as the main course. 

All I really have to say is: good job, Omaha Tap House, your burger was great, and you had one harsh hamburger critic eating there.

In a further conversation with my waiter Seth, I asked about the construction and foot traffic, and he admitted that foot traffic into the Omaha Tap House seemed much lower since the start of the streetcar project, and he had personally seen many businesses around there close due to the construction. He was a fantastic conversationalist and waiter at a fantastic restaurant. 

Omaha Tap House

1401 Farnam Street Omaha, Nebraska 68102

(402) 932-5131

Monday - Thursday  11AM - 10PM, 

Friday - Saturday 11AM - 11PM

Sunday - 11AM - 9PM

Austin Petak is an aspiring novelist and freelance journalist who loves seeking stories and the quiet passions of the soul. If you are interested in reaching out to him to cover a story, you may find him at austinpetak@gmail.com.